Pieter Mulier’s Chapter at Alaïa Comes to a Close as Creative Director Departs After Five Years
Belgian designer Pieter Mulier is stepping down as creative director of Maison Alaïa, with his final collection set to debut at Paris Fashion Week in March for the Fall 2026 season, the brand confirmed this week. The departure marks the end of a highly significant five-year tenure in which Mulier both honoured the legacy of founder Azzedine Alaïa and reenergized the house in the global fashion landscape.
Mulier, who took the helm in 2021 as the first creative director appointed since Alaïa’s death in 2017, has been widely credited with steering the Paris-based label through a period of creative renewal and broader commercial relevance. His work married the house’s storied codes — meticulous tailoring, sculptural forms and celebration of the female silhouette — with a fresh, often technically bold sensibility that resonated with both critics and buyers.
In a statement, Alaïa’s CEO Myriam Serrano thanked Mulier “for his vision and commitment,” saying he had written “an important chapter in the ongoing evolution of the Maison.” The brand also emphasized that a creative successor has not yet been named, and that the in-house studio will manage continuity while a permanent appointment is made.
A Twig Turned to Strength
Mulier’s tenure was notable for respecting Alaïa’s heritage while pushing it forward. Rather than leaning heavily on archival tropes, he distanced the house from mere revivalism, often simplifying silhouettes and focusing on material innovation and architectural dressmaking that spoke to contemporary tastes. His collections drew on technical precision and understated sensuality rather than overt branding or trend chasing.
Industry watchers point to both cult-favorite pieces — such as ballet flat silhouettes and the now-coveted Le Teckel bag — and sophisticated runway statements that reaffirmed Alaïa’s identity without feeling stuck in the past. This balance helped Alaïa achieve not only critical momentum but also increased global recognition and commercial performance.
What’s Next — and What’s at Stake
As speculation mounts about Mulier’s next move — with several fashion insiders naming Versace as a potential destination following recent executive changes at that house — Alaïa enters a delicate transitional phase. The luxury industry at large has seen a cascade of high-profile creative changes in recent seasons, often reshuffling top talent as brands reposition for evolving markets and consumer expectations.
For Alaïa, the key challenge now will be finding a successor capable of maintaining the refinement and continuity that Mulier cultivated, while also bringing fresh energy to a maison that has become something of a quiet powerhouse in Paris. The next creative appointment will be watched closely; it will signal whether the brand continues on its current arc or enters a new chapter altogether.
A Legacy Honored
Ultimately, Mulier’s departure closes a distinctive chapter in Alaïa’s storied history — one in which a designer adept at technical craft and subtle reinterpretation helped a heritage house live vibrantly in the present. His final runway in March will not only showcase his last collection for Alaïa but also serve as a testament to what a thoughtful balance between legacy and innovation can achieve in a world driven by creative reinvention.
